One morning Brad and Jim informed me the town we were in had a KTM motorcycle shop. I rode over to find a small shop tuck in the middle of a busy road, with very little parking.

The service tech spoke less English than I did French. What we did get from the communication was “I was traveling around the world and needed a fork seal replaced”. He had the fork seal but the mechanic was busy and could not do it for a few days BUT he made a call and found a guy 15 miles up the road that could do the work. I bought the seal (I bought two of them) and parted ways from Jim and Brad for the day. The plan was to meet up with them 100 miles down the road that night.

This is where I almost messed up. I got a little scared about riding off on my own, to an independent shop. 1st I was riding alone in France, and to tell the truth my French is a little rusty (ok, I have no French at all). 2nd I was nervous about letting a hack tear into my high performance machine. 3rd I didn’t I really know where I was going? “Au revoir” to Jim and Brad.

I started out of town and found a Yamaha shop. With seals in hand I chicken out and pulled in to the parking lot to see it the Yamaha shop could so the needed work. Luckily they were closed. “Here we go”.

North up the A20 sortie (exit) 46 a gauch (left) at “T droit (right) on D920. When I got to the shop and I did (I DID, I DID, I DID) a short stature man with peppering gray hair opened the gate. His name was Sebastian.

Sebastian had me roll my bike into the shop (which was attachment to this house) then handed me a set of ear muffs (for sound not warmth). As I put mine on, he fired up a sport bike that was strapped to a dino (a machine used to test engines at different stress levels). “WHA…. WHAAA… WHAAAAAAAA” he stiffed through the gears. As he was running the snot out of this bike I looked at the shop, 2 dino’s, 3 lifts, all tools neatly placed on a peg board wall, and mostly high end Italian made motorcycles in some stage of repair. What I had found was a motorcycle guru. “WHAAAAAAAAA…….” 265 KPH (160MPH) shows on the computer screen. Then he turns off the bike, looks around smiles and fires it back up for round two. When he finished, he looked at me, motioned to a flat line on the screen, said “Crap clutch” and pointed to the slipping clutch discs. I nodded and made my best slipping clutch sound “Vvvhhhhoooooooommmm”. He smiled nodded yes and said “Vvvvvhhhhooooomm”. I was totally in!

Sebastian turned his attention to my bike. I handed him the fork seal he said “Easy”. He proceeded to dismantled my front end, with the speed that comes with doing this type of job many times. Laughing with spirit all the while, and on the verge of whistling the entire time. With in 15 minutes the fork was removed, disassembled and was going back together. A oil representative (he spoke English) came by in his route and we got to talking. “Sebastian is one of the best mechanics in France” and I believe him. Within 45 minutes the job was complete (he and I both smiling) and I was paying the 65 Euro bill ($90). I told him the same job was $250 in Canada and he smiled bigger.

Lesson learned (again). Some of life’s treasures are easily missed when we are afraid to step out of our comfort zone. Isn’t that what this trip is about?



　

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London 07/10/2010
 
Here we go!

We left for the airport in Toronto at 11:00 am for a 9:30 pm flight. We returned the car, jumped a shuttle and were off just in time to sit and wait for the next 10 hours. You would think that would have been a painful wait but the thrill/anticipation of completing North America and continuing on was keeping us excited. So much so, it started the night before when we got 5 hours sleep (due to messing with paper work). I ate the last donut from Tim Horton’s (Boston Cream, my new favorite) and boarded the plane, all the while hoping the bike were loaded underneath us. Every time we heard a bump under the plane we would look at each other and say “Dude, that was your bike”. The 6 hour flight was uneventful other than very little sleep and the movies, Valentines day and The Bounty Hunter. Quick review, probably worth seeing if you can get them from Red Box for a buck.

The plane landed and we got our bags. Now where? We took a cab to the shipping port to pick up the bikes. Tell the truth I was a little nervous about the bike and customs with 6 hours of sleep the last two nights. Her is the best part. After waiting 15 minutes, showing my driver license and a thumb print the took me to the bike and let me roll it to the parking lot. THAT’S IT! It took longer to put all gear back in the saddle bags. So long in fact to sets of police men came by and checked my ID (not Jims, I might need to shave). Once the bike were ready (fairing/windshields replaced, batteries reconnected and crap loaded back) we were off for gas. The bikes shipped with less than 1 gallon. We rolled ON THE LEFT.

First stop gas, $8.00 a gallon. EEEeek fill it up 5 gallons please. Ride on the left. Jim has a second cousin that is letting us crash at his place in downtown London. Yup, very nice. Only problem is riding a motorcycle into downtown London. We road 60 miles to the flat. The first 50 was on the highway and other than remembering to ride on the left was fine. The last 10 miles of London city driving is completely insane. No words can describe the chaos of cars, busses, scooters, pedestrians, strollers, cabs, etc…… Nothing can prepare a fella for this. Try this, imagine any small two lane road, no speed limit. You drive on the left but you don’t really have to stay on your side of the road, if you need to pass a stopped car by moving into on coming traffic, that’s fine., no biggie. Motorcycle have no laws to follow so when you do it is unexpected and it freaks out the drivers.

We made it to flat, parked out front, unload the bikes, promptly got a 60 pound ($90) parking ticket from two Jamaican police officers. We pushed the bikes around back. Walked to a corner diner ate diner at 5pm and fell asleep for the next 17 hours. Welcome to London boys. I would like to say I am exaggerating about the 17 hours but I am not.

Today we woke up and headed off starving fro some reason. Felt kinda like a bear just waking up after hibernation. We found some food and went walking up the road. Lovely little shops lined the streets and views of small uniformed apartments around every corner. I would say we walked 5 or 6 miles today as a warm up to tomorrow. We are going to go downtown London and see the tourist sites Buckingham palace, the Thames river, Queen Mary’s garden, etc. More on this day later.

We will roll out of London on Saturday. I hope to have a shop lined out to do the needed work on my bike. If they are open on Saturday they have the job, if not, off to France.

We ended up walking 10 or 12 miles to see the sights of London, Buckingham Palace, The Tower Bridge etc. Was fun but made for a loooong day. Up early the next day to try and beat the traffic. We are now in


　

　

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We roll on 07/05/2010
 
Since we last left …….

After a wet day and creepy evening we learned the Canadian post office lost the passports. “Why did the Canadian post office have our passports?” . Ya see, we had to send our passports to the Russian consulate, to have them approve our Visa. Normally a fella would do this before he left on the trip but because of the rules, we could not apply for the visa BEFORE 45 days of entering the country. Therefore the passport were mailed over night express (5days) and lost. This caused a little stress. More on this later.

The day we rode out of Kinaston, Sk was a warm, clear day. Riding in the rain is soggy, but if it is backed up by a warm day, you just put on all the same wet clothes from the day before and in no time laundry is done! Washed and air dried!

We entered back into the US without any issues (we were carrying passport cards) and cruised to Minneapolis where we had the bikes serviced. We met Janet who gave us a ride to the bike shop to drop the bikes off and then back to the hotel. Zooom she was off and away, again. I think my wife lives in Minnesota. Don’t fret, we are trying to get her to come to Rome where I will take a few days off from the adventure for a short vacation. At the shop, tires were changed, heat grips installed (mine need a little attention) and general service. The service was great and the guys at Delano KTM were nice. Nicholas, the service manager gave us a ride from the hotel to the shop in his personal truck, big blue (bring your own ear plugs).

Passports found. They are in Seattle. We had them sent overnight to the hotel in Toronto. Keep your fingers crossed they make it of the whole deal is off.

While in Minneapolis we rented a car for the day and went shopping at the Mall of America. Shopping?? Well looking, I don’t think we bought anything. We really don’t have the room to carry anything and no matter how big, exciting, or fantastic it is, it’s still a mall. It is said the mall is the second largest in North America. The mall does have an amusement park inside, complete with log ride and a roller coaster. We didn’t buy anything but did walk the entire mall. We did have to take a break and have an Orange Julius. Then back to the hotel for a nap. Its is a large mall.

The next three nights we camped out.

The first night we stayed at camp ground next to a lake, in Wisconsin. It was here camping next to us was a couple with 5 or 6 young boys (all with burr hair cuts and non with shirts). The weather was beautiful, which means the camp ground was packed. In the morning, as we packed up the campsite, after a pretty cold night out, Joey the oldest of the boys (and kind of a punk), was doing whatever the oldest ones do, when an over weight, panic stricken, out of breath kid came riding over on a beat up bicycle. “JOEY, aaaa” whizzing. “JOEY, a teenager from the playground, says he is going to beat you up”. “Jim can we stay?” I asked, total Days of Our Lives, playing out. Joey was visibly shaken, but had to play it off as cool. Then two of the others got to talking and found out the kid was 12 (Not a teenager). Joey’s attitude completely changed, and as he mount his bicycle riding towards the playground we heard him say “Lets just take a look at this kid”. That was the last we saw of Joey. I must say I admire Joey for heading out to met his fears head on and not letting fear control him. I say good for you, Joey. I kind of hope Joey got his tail kick by the 12 year old. What? Joey was a jerk.

The next day we rolled into the northern peninsula of Michigan. The day was warm and the hills swept by, until Lake Michigan came into view. If you have not seen one of the great lakes it looks like the ocean. Beautiful white sand beaches stretch along, dotted with small boat docks. The only thing missing is the smell of the salt water. Our campsite was one sand dune away from the beach. Jim built a fire and played the guitar while we discussed our options of the lost pass port issues. Argentina??

The third night we crossed back over into Canada. The ride was hot. HOT, I say. This is Canada and it was hot. We stopped a what would become one of our favorites the “Tim Horton“. The best way to describe a Tim Horton is, its like a Duncan Donuts/Starbucks, but better. They are located all over Canada and I think I will go now and have a cup of coffee. What we have found is the Canadians are an adventurous sort. Maybe they have to be to live up here. When the sun is shinning they are outside hiking, skating, playing at the parks or camping. They as a group. are very supportive of our trip and wish us the best of luck. It is not unusual for me to get caught in a conversion for an hour at the gas station, or possibly Tim Horton’s. We camped at one of the government run camp grounds and met some real nice folks.

Hot is the theme here lately. But we are happy. We made it to Toronto! And the passports and Russian Visa were waiting at the hotel desk. We have sent aside a couple of days down time to get ready to fly to London. Today we had to wash the bikes and deliver them (48 hours) in advance to the cargo company. The bikes could not have any BUGS on them. That’s all I have been doing for 6000 miles is killing bugs with my head light. A trip to what was called the “Worlds Largest Walmart” and 8 bucks in quarters, WHAMO bikes are clean. Two story Walmart, but I think the one in Garland is bigger. Of course riding around Toronto looking for a car wash can be a bit frustrating. We managed to find the cargo company and drop off the bikes. All paper work was in line (so far) and it went smooth (made me nervous). We have tomorrow to do laundry and pack the carry on bags. Perhaps get a car and drive to see Niagara Falls. All is well in Toronto.

　Drama alert: if you don’t want to read about more drama stop here.





When I walk out this morning to get my motorcycle it was leaking from the fork seal. Cross your finger it makes it though customs. My bike has the same issue Jim’s had at the beginning of the trip. I have sent an email to a shop in England to hopefully have the work done asap. We will see..

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OOOooooo More 06/24/2010
 
Out of White Horse we road (sounds like a western). While heading south east along the Alaskan Highway we came across the Sign Post Forest. It is said that a WWII soldier was injured and while on recovery wanted to help combat home sickness. So he hung signs with the names and distances to the major city in the lower 48 states. This grew, of course, and for the last 70 years travelers have brought signs (I am guessing stolen signs) from all over. See picture under photos.

We have rolled along camping out under the huge Canadian sky and hoteling it every few days. We have seen bears, bison, goats, and moose standing on the side of the road. See pictures

We did run into a issue with Jim’s bike. By now you have probably heard it blew a fork seal. This is not a easy road side fix so we headed to Edmonton to the dealer. We stayed at the Best Western and I tried to do some laundry. NOTE: All coin operated laundry mats close at 9:00 PM. I went to the room and we ordered a pizza. 7:30 am I was doing a load of whites (really kinda grey’s, but whateva). We both had work done on the bikes. Mine an oil change and rear tire, Jim’s oil and the fork seal. The dealership was great although a little more than what we are used to paying in the states, but the service was great. The guys were were alot of fun and very knowledgeable. Thanks Cycle Works and Jason for answering all my questions. We also met a really nice group of gals at a work clothing store. They were fun and sealed the deal, Canadians are REALLY nice courtious, wonderful people (it reminds me of Oklahoma). Canada is beautiful. Oh and we were instructed to the Philippines next.

We have a major service coming up before we take the bikes to Europe. With the price of service in Canada we decided to make a run for the border. We are dropping down into the states in North Dakota and heading east to Minnesota for service on Tuesday. Then we will ride back up to Toronto. I know, I know we are not riding all the way across Canada. Well first, fuel is $4.20 a gallon and service is much cheaper in Minneapolis. Second, Saskatchewan looks just like Iowa, Kansas, Nebraska (pick one). We were told today by a guy at the gas station “Saskatchewan is so flat I watch my dog run away for there days”. I believe him. Third, and this one I am kind of excited about. I finally get to “Pick up” North Dakota and Michigan. These are the last two states I need to have been to all the states. And forth, this is my favorite, Janet is in Minneapolis and I get to see her for a couple of days!!!!!

On from Edmonton. It has rained every evening after we get camp set up (and that’s a good thing). Today Mother Nature decided to throw a curve, heavy crosswinds along with torrential down pours. Brutal day of riding, the bikes leaned over and us crawling up on the side of the bikes to keep them on the road. Slow LONG day. Tonight we are in a hotel that doesn’t have a bath or shower. The toilet is down the hall, although we do have a sink. We had to switch room because the last one had a leaking roof with a 55 gallon trash can collecting the was. The bar under us is playing a mixture of 80’s and 80’s country. As bad as the room is I am glad to have a bed. Good night all, Sweet dreams.

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Since we last left you, we have completed the “Dreaded Dalton Highway”. This is the Ice Road Trucking (TV Show) road. We were told it was impassable and that our new bikes would be destroyed if we attempted the 500 mile (mostly dirt) road. This road is a haul route for oilfield supplies to the town of Dead Horse. There were two gas stops which were out of fuel range, causing us to have to carry extra fuel. We rode the road in 4 days, 250 miles a day.

You didn’t hear this from me, but the road was in terrific shape. My mother in laws drive way is rougher than this HIGHLY maintained dirt road. We blasted along at the posted speed limit of 50 mph for days. We came across incredible mountain passes and the thawing tundra. Wild Caribou herds crossed in our path.

We stayed in a hotel that looked like a polar expedition movie gone bad. Crrrreeeeeppy, but it was 33 degrees out and the sun never went down (never even a dusk). We were warm, dry and out of the wind (happy, happy, happy).

We camped out in a gravel pit. It was high out of the thawing tundra (mosquitoes are bad). It was a great spot not to watch the sun set.

Fairbanks again. We thought we would never leave Fairbanks. It has this strange vortex,, life sucking travel eating way. When we finally broke from Fairbanks we rolled to North Pole AK.

Yes, I saw Santa. He asked me where I was from and I said “Dallas”. He says “Dallas? Or somewhere like Denton?” AAAAAAAaaaaaaaaahhh He knows!!!!!!!! TRUE STORY!

We rolled on out of the North Pole after drinking an Orange Cream Soda with Santa. We camped out in the town of Tok (Toke). Nice private campground with showers and a spray wash for vehicles (we did both).

On down the road into Canada (The Yukon) along the Alaskan Highway, which is a paved road that connects Alaska with the rest of the US, through Canada. In 1942 with the out break WWII, the US was vulnerable to attack in Alaska. The Alaskan Highway is a paved 1500 mile, road built (across Canada) to supply troops and equipment. It was built in and astounding 8 months. Now the road is in need of repair and if you ask me, it looks like they save money by putting up “Rough Road” signs instead of repairing the rough road.

Last night we camped out in a Government run campground near a lake. We pulled in to read a sign stating the campground was closed July to September 15 because the wild berries were in bloom. These berries were the staple of the local bear population. “Hey Sanders, what is todays date?” The camping was fine, no bear issue. Jim however did make friends with a small grey bird. I will look it up and find out what kind. It landed on the guitar case while he was packing. I have a video of him feeding it from his hand but am still having trouble with the down loading of videos.

Today was sort of a half day (156 miles). We are held up in a cheap motel (I get that from my father) in the largest city in the Yukon, White Horse (named after the white water falls looking like the flowing manes of horses). We are going take tomorrow off the run errands and maybe even get a proper cup of coffee! On the list of things is to do… Water proof boots, get two way communications working, get the “SPOT” up and running. Still trying to get that Russian Visa stuff figured out. We send out passports off tomorrow and make reservations for a place to stay in Toronto.

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And there off 06/10/2010
 
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We flew into Anchorage not knowing what to expect. When we exited the plane this was the view.  The weather was perfet (ok, maybe a little chilly). I felt confident Jim was ready after watching study the map on the airline
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After the flight we retrieved our luggage. While waiting we saw this box/luggage of some sap. Ha! This made us laugh, please notice the duct taped, wooded handle (made from two piant stir sticks). This guys wife probably used an entire roll of duct tape. All I have to say is "Thanks Janet it totally worked". Yes this was mine.
 
 
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This is  BEFORE we went to the ups store and sent stuff home'
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Alright enough with those silly pictures. Onward north allong High 3. This was taken just outside Fairbanks. Fairbanks is the city you can not get a hotel room (because of tourism) on a Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday.
We took the day off today to try and get a little more organized. we are head up the Haul road (the one seen on the TV show Ice Road Truckers).  We have a stetch of 250miles with no services. The bikes fuel range is 210. We are having to carry extra gas. I have put together a system that will allow us to carry 3 extra gallons. If it works I will show you in myu next blog.
   We are having a good time and trying to get used to no darkness.  The futher north we go the less dusk (it never gets dark). We are camping out the next 3 nights. we hear the bugs are awful. We pick up food for the next couple of days.
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  The day has come. The day I dreaded. Today, I had to say so long to some of the greatest folks a person could be around. As a school teacher/coach, I tell my students/athletes to surround themselves with quality people. I try to adhere to my own advise and it always amazes me the talent I find myself near. 
    To all the forks at work, your support in this adventure is recognized and greatly appreciated. Not one person ever said anything negative (other than not to run with the bulls but why do you think I got my knee fixed?).  
     Here is a quick shout out to my friends on 8-2, the best team in the school (Sorry 8-1 love you, but 8-2). Gail your the BEST hall mom and I have had some pretty good hall moms. Thanks for keeping the kids informed, its nice, easy and quick for me to tell them go ask you. Simon you are the great indicator, when you are smiling all is well, no fires to put out and life is good. We can relax and enjoy. Coach Logan, I enjoyed you backing my practical jokes to the point the kids had no idea if either ones of us were kidding (thanks). Mary Katherine (I hope I spelled that correctly. I knew I would miss Seshlinger so I didn’t even try) love the voice and the singing. If I knew more songs, I would never leave your room. MK I enjoy your visits to the team meetings. Your academic vocabulary of student behavior is a delight and makes me laugh. Sneed thank you for the corner of that one shelve in the supply room and of course the end of the year parties, Janet and I enjoyed them. I would say you are my favorite to sit next to at professional development, but I don’t want anyone to know.
     And of course my coaching family (spend hours with people after everyone else goes home and you get to know them well). Boss you are great to work for. It is nice to be able to “Find” work to do, other than be “Told” what work has to be done. I hope I tell you often how much I enjoy working for you. Truth be told everyone “She pushed me out of the plane!” Coach Hugson, you are just fun to be around (period). Your experience and excitement are a bonus to any program, but you bring much, much more to the court. 
    My special group Samm, Coach Wittles, thank you for looking out for me and reminding me what day it is. I still don’t know how to get a sub. You both are wonderfully, talented and I am lucky to get to work with you.
     I guess I am going down the line and if I forget to thank you, but be offended I forget ALL KINDS OF STUFF.
     Sanders, your kids are crazy, brilliant but you know that. Thank you for being a beautiful, wonderful, talented child.  In the classroom you are amazing and I have learned from you both in the classroom and on the court (you knowledge is appreciated). Okay, its nice that you are rock solid too, but don’t do that thing with you elbows, that grosses me out! Oh and keep making the coffee, you never know when I might pop in.
    Admin. Thanks. For those of you who do not know, I went to resign my position at Winter break. My boss told me she would not let me leave. I was a little confused but when your me, that happens a lot. I told her about Jim, motorcycle and the plan. She told me just “To come back when I was done.”  I have been working for her three years and she goes out of her way, calling in favors to allow me to come back to work in a year. Once again, I want to thank you Dr. Nobles for the opportunity to work for you, the last three year. You are my favorite boss, thank you.
      If I did not mention you by name it does not mean I forgot or that I don’t appreciate what you do. Evan represent OK for us. Smith and Traci hope the weddings are everything you planned. Dunworth go have your shoulders looked at. Mr. Smith feel free to launch from my yard. Officer Howell I didn’t any of the pork. NONE. Next year I am in for $40.00.
     Thanks again to everyone at work, again found myself surrounded by talented people.
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Bikes are gone 05/27/2010
 
I just finished up loading the bikes on a trailer. The transporters next stop is Colorado, where he will pick up two four wheelers to keep the KTM’s company on the long ride to Alaska. A week without working on a bike will be strange.

      A small miscommunication between the dealer and the luggage company left me with a rack system that would not work with my luggage. Today I returned the luggage and ordered a new set of larger ones. I will have to pack them and carry them on the plane. Lucky Jim had his ready to go.

     Now I get to look over routes and guild books. Perhaps it will be a little less stressful but them again we only have a week till we fly out.
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OOoops 05/26/2010
 
        I stopped by the dealer today and picked up my bike. Brought it home and installed the wiring harness for the heated gear and GPS unit. All was going well until I tried to install the luggage onto the new rack (which was put on today). Oooopps the luggage will NOT fit eeekkk. The bikes are shipping out to Alaska tomorrow. I am not sure what I am going to do, but can’t see a need to get upset (wouldn’t do any good). I loaded the bike back up and will take it to Josh (KTM) and I am sure he will work some magic. Stand by to see what happens next.
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Ktm test ride 05/16/2010
 
.       Today, I needed to put some miles on the bike. I have to have 1000 miles on it by Friday, so it can get its first tune up completed before we ship it off. 
      I got out this morning around 8:00 and headed north. I met a friend for lunch in McAlester, OK. She wanted to see the plans so I met her at Staples bought a map of the world and drew a rough outline of the trip. Bet you would like one too (all in good time or catch me near a Staples).
     I was 70 miles away from Janet’s folks place in Gore, OK so a quick stop to see them before we leave. 
     Finally I got off the highways and headed to Ada to see the place Janet and I first met. It was hundreds of back road miles (Oklahoma is so pretty). Some how I ended up at Wintersmith Park, just past the spot I tried to get my first kiss from Janet. Please notice it did not happen here.
       When the day was done I rode in at 8:00pm and clock 485 miles. This brings me to 715 miles total. A few more runs next week and I am good as gold. Sorry got to run, I have to hurry and order a new seat. My tail is killing me.
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