Russia

We stopped at the Russian, Finland border thought to ourselves do we really want to do this? I had just waited in 3 different lines, been spoke at, (in Russian) had all my documentation, when I noticed 3 machine gun carrying Russian police officers standing around my motorcycle. A large puddle of gas was forming, from a steady drip coming from under my bike. Jim had already gone through the process and was waiting. “We got to go, now. I have stalled them as long as I can”. I got on my bike (here is the kicker) stuffed all important Russian document in carrying pouch and rolled past the check point. On the way, we were stopped 3 more times to check our passports. I think it is here where I lost one of the two pieces of paper the Russian Custom Agent told me NOT to loose.

When you enter Russia your are required to register every 3rd night at a hotel or travel agency. The purpose is to keep track of your movements. Russians like document trails. I managed to hang on to this one.

Another piece of…..documentation is used when temperately importing a vehicle, Declaration of goods. It is also used as a temporary registration. This is the piece of paper I lost within 5 minutes of being told not to loose. I am going to blame it on late afternoon, motorcycle showing signs of breaking down, oh and machine guns. Ok I was a little stressed. What did this mean? I was legal to be in Russia but my bike was not. And so this was how we started our first day in Russia. I called the US Embassy and was told to call back the next day and she would have answer on what I should do. I called back and she told me she didn’t really know and to “maybe go to the police”. Just letting you know that didn’t happen.

Jim and I rode into Russia from the Northern boarder, After a hundred miles of the most intense traffic we stopped at a cheap motel/ pizza joint. It was getting dark we, we were exhausted and after I paid 2 mean looking security guards, 10 euros to watch the bikes for the night we ordered a pizza ate and went to bed. It was here I noticed our paperwork didn’t match. In the middle of the night Jim became ill (in the stomach) and didn’t get much sleep. This illness is still hanging on and he has to tread lightly on his choice of foods.

　

The next day we rode back roads around St. Petersburg with the WORST drivers on the planet. Russian drivers do not follow any rules. They will pass in blind corners, on coming cars will pass, even if they see you (the bigger vehicle wins). We were completely run off the road at least 6 times by drivers that saw us. After awhile you just calmly, slow down and pull off on the shoulder and go “3 wide”. The roads are in awful shape, with giant ruts caused by trucks and hard winters. The ruts look like ones made in the mud by 4x4’s that have dried (these are on the Interstates equivalent of I35). The US has far superior dirt roads compared to Russia’s main super highways. 7000 miles of these roads and drivers.

Police

Each town of any size (1500+) will have a police check point. At the edge of town the speed limit will drop to 12mph and a police officer with a baton (looked like a running baton with a white stripe) stands, waiting. He randomly point his baton at a car to pull over. He then checks paper work, extorts money, issue citations.

The first time we were pulled over was early in the morning. We were heading out of a big city and had already seem 4 or 5 car wrecks (possibly fatalities). As we crested a hill an officer pointed his stick at us and motioned to pull over. We slowed and pulled over putting on my game face (remember as far as we know my bike is not legal). He asked for passports and something. This is where I have to hand it to Jim. Jim hands his passport, then says ”Oh insurance” then hands over proof of insurance. Before the guy can ask and remember we are in Russia, we have an endless supply of government documentation, Jim says “title” and hands over a copy of his title. All the while I am gathering my matching information and holding it out. “Oh motorcycle registration, migration card, hotel registrations“, and so. After about 3 rounds of this the police would get tired, bored, or overwhelmed and wave us along. Not once did we pay for a “Violation”. We ended up getting pulled over 3 or 4 times at check points and each time it worked like a charm.

About the police, we heard awful things about extortion, bribery, and overall harassment. We didn’t see proof of that. They were very courteous and professional. One night while looking for a hotel in a big city a patrol unit pulled up and led us to the nicest hotel in town. Even the two that pounded on our sleazy motel door at 10:30 pm demanding to see our papers were very nice once we showed we were legal (all the while knowing my bike was not).

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